Thursday, March 15, 2012
On-the-Fly Baby Girl Raglan Sweater
On-the-fly baby girl sweater
I am publishing this pattern....just because I want to share it! I have never published a pattern before (which will become obvious to you) so if you like to blindly follow well-written patterns....turn back now! You will certainly be frustrated with me. But if you enjoy winging it a bit and like to improve on patterns that you see, please continue with me.
This sweater came out of my exploration, on a mini scale, of learning to design sweaters on the fly, using Wendy Bernard's Custom Knits book (which is GENIUS!) I set out to improvise a mini cardigan in stockinette with raglan sleeves, from the top down, making design decisions as I went. My goal was to understand the full process without investing the time for an adult sweater. I'm sharing it with 'you' the public because I would love to see the innovations other people make on the design and any feedback on how to write directions more clearly.
Needles:US 5
Patterns: stockinette, k1, p1 ribbing, knotted open work (see youtube video below), single crochet finish on the front.
gauge:6 sts x 8 rows per 1" x 1"
yarn: precious pink. Paton's beehive baby sport.
size: newborn
I imagine if you want to make it larger than new born, you could use size 6 or 7 needles with this yarn. Or use a slightly heavier yarn and size 8 or 9 needles. I would love to see if someone could make that work...because this sweater is not going to fit the baby for long! It is definately newborn size.
I based this sweater on a 3” neck opening.
US 5 gauge 6sts x 8 for 1 x 1 stockinette stitch (6 stitch per inch gauge multipled by the 3 inch opening that you want equals 18 stitches for the back neck opening)
Working from the top down, first cast on looks like this:
1 PM 6 PM 18 PM 6 PM 1 (PM = place marker) If you wanted to make it bigger you might add an inch to the neck opening...i.e 6 stitches and make it 1pm8pm24pm8pm1 -- see how the math works?
Begin knitting stockinette stitch. On every RS row, increases on both sides of every place marker with a k1f/b. Starting with the 2nd RS row, also start increaseing at the first and last stitches on the row with a k1 fb(which would be the shaping on the neckline beginning). This means that you are increasing 8 stitches on the first RS row and 10 stitches total on the 2nd RS row and every following RS row. Stop when you reach 18sts each on front right and front left (which will be equal to the 36 back sts).
Continue in stockinette, increasing ONLY on both sides of the PMs now (8sts every right side, total). In other words, no increases at the neckline now. Then, stop all increasing and separate out sleeves onto waste yarn when the right front sts equal 26. Next work a few rows of the main body connected (without the sleeves) Total sts should be 113. If your stitches are not 113 subtly increase or decrease on the armpits with a k1fb or k2tog until you have the right number. If you have changed the original cast on number just be sure that your stitch count at this point is a multiple of 3 + 3, for the knotted open work pattern PLUS 2 extra stitches for selvage, if you like. I don't think selvage is absolutely necessary here...your choice.
So...we are now going to make 8 rows of the 'knotted open work' pattern (with one stitch of selvage --p1-- for the first and last stitches on the row). We will also use 8 rows of this pattern at the bottom edge and will later pick up stitches around the collar and use 4 rows of this same pattern.
Here’s a link how to do the pattern:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mljlttS5okw&feature=en...
Here’s the written pattern for these 8 rows:
Knotted Open Work:
Row 1: (Right Side) K2, YO, K3 - then pass the first stitch over the second and third sts Repeat from * to last stitch, K1
Row 2: Purl all stitches
Row 3: K1, K3 - then pass the first stitch over the second and third sts, YO Repeat from * to last two stitches, K2
Row 4: Purl all stitches
Repeat these 4 Rows for pattern. Do the pattern two times for a total of 8 rows to make this waistline band. (Now would be a good time to read the 'oddity' note at the bottom of the pattern.)
Remember to include a purl 1 selvage stitch at the beginning and end of each row, if you'd like one. I put PM's after the first stitch and before the last stitch on the row, to remind me of the selvage stitch.
WILD CARD MOMENT:
I started the pattern on a RS row. When I got to the end of the row…having done the pattern right…there was no final k1 available! So, I had to do a M1. Im not sure why….I am the worst counter ever. It looks good though, after doing 8 rows…so I stopped and made it a middle band. I had orignially thought of making the rest of the sweater in knotted open work, so, if its working out for you, continue on by all means and show me a photo of how it comes out! But I stopped after 8 rows and then I knit about 6 rows in stockinette again and then placed 3 new place markers.
1PM centered under each arm and one at the center back (at 51/52st). Then, I did increases on both sides of those PM’s (k1f/b) on every RS row, (purling each wrong side without increases).
Once I reached 143 (I actually reached 142…but I threw in an extra k1f/b to get the stitch count right for the pattern...you can do the same. Under the arm is a good place to camoflague it) not to mention that the first row i increased, i only increased 4sts instead of 6….so...your stitch count will come out different most certainly and you will have to organize that somehow.
Now that I see the effects of that way of increasing in the paragraph above (where definiate 'lines' are shown where the place markers were) next time…I would just divide up the increases over the row -say, one every 10 stitches--so the increase ‘line’ isnt obvious. live and learn. The whole point here is to increase the the sweater from teh waist to the hips, so that it flares out a bit...that can be done in many ways, as long as you wind up with the right amount of stitches to start the knotted open work edging, which is where we are now.
So, with 143 its a multiple of 3 + 3 for the pattern + 2 extra stitches for the p1 selvage. Lets see if it works. Yep. I did another 8 rows in this pattern and then bound off. Be sure to bind off as loosly as possible. Because its nice to get a little stretch in the lace when you block it, to open it up a bit and if the bind off is too tight (like mine was) it doesnt open up as nicely.
Now, back to finish the collar in knotted open work.
Pick up stitches around the collar and make sure there a multiple of 3 + 3. I'm sorry, but I forgot to write down how many stitches I picked up. Then do 4 rows of the ‘knotted open work’ pattern and then bind off. ( Btw, on the neck this pattern is ADORABLE!)
Now, finishing up the sleeves that we left on waste yarn.
Take the sleeve stitches off of the waist yarn and put them back on dpn US 5 needles. Do 2 rows of k1 p1 ribbing and then bind off on the third row. Do this with both sleeves. Then weave in the ends and you will probably need to do some fancy footwork under the armpit to tighten up some stitches. Now the sleeves are done!
Add a single crochet finish to the front edges. You could always do another edging, but I wanted something simple and fast. Depending if you want to add a button or two and where you want to add them, this would be a good time to crochet a little single crochet 'loop' to serve as a button hole. I was too lazy to do this so I just put sewed on two buttons at the same level, one on each side, and then fashioned a bit of yarn to loop one button to the other, which might not have been the most elegant option.
But, we are done!
So weave in the ends and block it. Take a picture and show me :)
ODDITY NOTE:
Two out of four times that I did the 'knotted open work' pattern repeat, when I got to the end of the first row of the pattern there was no final k1 there to do. If this happens to you, don't panic. I don't know why, but it lined up right anyway and looked good. And, if there is no k1 then you will probably find that there is no final k2 at the end of the 3rd row pattern repeat. Again....it didn't seem to matter, but that is why I didn't do more repeats of that pattern. I didn't want to push my luck. It probably won't happen to any one else....I am a notoriously bad counter, but if it looks fine anyway...who cares! ;)
I am publishing this pattern....just because I want to share it! I have never published a pattern before (which will become obvious to you) so if you like to blindly follow well-written patterns....turn back now! You will certainly be frustrated with me. But if you enjoy winging it a bit and like to improve on patterns that you see, please continue with me.
This sweater came out of my exploration, on a mini scale, of learning to design sweaters on the fly, using Wendy Bernard's Custom Knits book (which is GENIUS!) I set out to improvise a mini cardigan in stockinette with raglan sleeves, from the top down, making design decisions as I went. My goal was to understand the full process without investing the time for an adult sweater. I'm sharing it with 'you' the public because I would love to see the innovations other people make on the design and any feedback on how to write directions more clearly.
Needles:US 5
Patterns: stockinette, k1, p1 ribbing, knotted open work (see youtube video below), single crochet finish on the front.
gauge:6 sts x 8 rows per 1" x 1"
yarn: precious pink. Paton's beehive baby sport.
size: newborn
I imagine if you want to make it larger than new born, you could use size 6 or 7 needles with this yarn. Or use a slightly heavier yarn and size 8 or 9 needles. I would love to see if someone could make that work...because this sweater is not going to fit the baby for long! It is definately newborn size.
I based this sweater on a 3” neck opening.
US 5 gauge 6sts x 8 for 1 x 1 stockinette stitch (6 stitch per inch gauge multipled by the 3 inch opening that you want equals 18 stitches for the back neck opening)
Working from the top down, first cast on looks like this:
1 PM 6 PM 18 PM 6 PM 1 (PM = place marker) If you wanted to make it bigger you might add an inch to the neck opening...i.e 6 stitches and make it 1pm8pm24pm8pm1 -- see how the math works?
Begin knitting stockinette stitch. On every RS row, increases on both sides of every place marker with a k1f/b. Starting with the 2nd RS row, also start increaseing at the first and last stitches on the row with a k1 fb(which would be the shaping on the neckline beginning). This means that you are increasing 8 stitches on the first RS row and 10 stitches total on the 2nd RS row and every following RS row. Stop when you reach 18sts each on front right and front left (which will be equal to the 36 back sts).
Continue in stockinette, increasing ONLY on both sides of the PMs now (8sts every right side, total). In other words, no increases at the neckline now. Then, stop all increasing and separate out sleeves onto waste yarn when the right front sts equal 26. Next work a few rows of the main body connected (without the sleeves) Total sts should be 113. If your stitches are not 113 subtly increase or decrease on the armpits with a k1fb or k2tog until you have the right number. If you have changed the original cast on number just be sure that your stitch count at this point is a multiple of 3 + 3, for the knotted open work pattern PLUS 2 extra stitches for selvage, if you like. I don't think selvage is absolutely necessary here...your choice.
So...we are now going to make 8 rows of the 'knotted open work' pattern (with one stitch of selvage --p1-- for the first and last stitches on the row). We will also use 8 rows of this pattern at the bottom edge and will later pick up stitches around the collar and use 4 rows of this same pattern.
Here’s a link how to do the pattern:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mljlttS5okw&feature=en...
Here’s the written pattern for these 8 rows:
Knotted Open Work:
Row 1: (Right Side) K2, YO, K3 - then pass the first stitch over the second and third sts Repeat from * to last stitch, K1
Row 2: Purl all stitches
Row 3: K1, K3 - then pass the first stitch over the second and third sts, YO Repeat from * to last two stitches, K2
Row 4: Purl all stitches
Repeat these 4 Rows for pattern. Do the pattern two times for a total of 8 rows to make this waistline band. (Now would be a good time to read the 'oddity' note at the bottom of the pattern.)
Remember to include a purl 1 selvage stitch at the beginning and end of each row, if you'd like one. I put PM's after the first stitch and before the last stitch on the row, to remind me of the selvage stitch.
WILD CARD MOMENT:
I started the pattern on a RS row. When I got to the end of the row…having done the pattern right…there was no final k1 available! So, I had to do a M1. Im not sure why….I am the worst counter ever. It looks good though, after doing 8 rows…so I stopped and made it a middle band. I had orignially thought of making the rest of the sweater in knotted open work, so, if its working out for you, continue on by all means and show me a photo of how it comes out! But I stopped after 8 rows and then I knit about 6 rows in stockinette again and then placed 3 new place markers.
1PM centered under each arm and one at the center back (at 51/52st). Then, I did increases on both sides of those PM’s (k1f/b) on every RS row, (purling each wrong side without increases).
Once I reached 143 (I actually reached 142…but I threw in an extra k1f/b to get the stitch count right for the pattern...you can do the same. Under the arm is a good place to camoflague it) not to mention that the first row i increased, i only increased 4sts instead of 6….so...your stitch count will come out different most certainly and you will have to organize that somehow.
Now that I see the effects of that way of increasing in the paragraph above (where definiate 'lines' are shown where the place markers were) next time…I would just divide up the increases over the row -say, one every 10 stitches--so the increase ‘line’ isnt obvious. live and learn. The whole point here is to increase the the sweater from teh waist to the hips, so that it flares out a bit...that can be done in many ways, as long as you wind up with the right amount of stitches to start the knotted open work edging, which is where we are now.
So, with 143 its a multiple of 3 + 3 for the pattern + 2 extra stitches for the p1 selvage. Lets see if it works. Yep. I did another 8 rows in this pattern and then bound off. Be sure to bind off as loosly as possible. Because its nice to get a little stretch in the lace when you block it, to open it up a bit and if the bind off is too tight (like mine was) it doesnt open up as nicely.
Now, back to finish the collar in knotted open work.
Pick up stitches around the collar and make sure there a multiple of 3 + 3. I'm sorry, but I forgot to write down how many stitches I picked up. Then do 4 rows of the ‘knotted open work’ pattern and then bind off. ( Btw, on the neck this pattern is ADORABLE!)
Now, finishing up the sleeves that we left on waste yarn.
Take the sleeve stitches off of the waist yarn and put them back on dpn US 5 needles. Do 2 rows of k1 p1 ribbing and then bind off on the third row. Do this with both sleeves. Then weave in the ends and you will probably need to do some fancy footwork under the armpit to tighten up some stitches. Now the sleeves are done!
Add a single crochet finish to the front edges. You could always do another edging, but I wanted something simple and fast. Depending if you want to add a button or two and where you want to add them, this would be a good time to crochet a little single crochet 'loop' to serve as a button hole. I was too lazy to do this so I just put sewed on two buttons at the same level, one on each side, and then fashioned a bit of yarn to loop one button to the other, which might not have been the most elegant option.
But, we are done!
So weave in the ends and block it. Take a picture and show me :)
ODDITY NOTE:
